In the land of Alim, Adab and Aab, Sonawari has emerged as a stronghold of Kashmiri literature. Outside his window, as Jhelum meanders through the Chinar-dotted landscape, Aadil Mohidin breaks into a thoughtful remark: “Ye wyeth roze pakaan (Jhelum will keep flowing).”  This typical Koshur watchword might be a regular—yet resilient—reply from Kashmiris caught in…