Tag: Downtown


  • As lockdowns have created financial crisis and distress in the society, Old Srinagar which once abhorred intrusions in its artistic atmosphere is now witnessing a growing footfall of NGOs. A frail old woman, seventyish, from the interiors of Barthana, comes by foot, huffing her way to the main Qamarwor area in Srinagar, to collect a…

  • Life on Jhelum bund has been a cultural cradle in Kashmir capital. While one side has a distinction of being an artisan abode, the other side echoes with what resonates from across the river. As the muezzinโ€™s prayer pitch pierces through the rafters of rundown residences, life on Jhelum riverbank at once turns meditatively calm.ย …

  • As peace continues to drive diplomatic discourses and backchannel talks, the discord-dented commoners of Kashmir still wonder about the elusive calm in their homeland. I pictured Manzoor Ahmad as a frown figure inside his rundown shop in Downtown Srinagar. The 65-year-old tailor was working on someoneโ€™s pheran. He enjoys working when the bright sunlight illuminates…

  • Kashmirโ€™s Persian connection mightโ€™ve elapsed from public memory amid the blitz of the distorted narrative over the years, but a sanctum sanctorum in old Srinagar is still making these ties as obvious as it was back in the reformerโ€™s time. A turret rising from a rusty pyramid-shaped rooftop in downtownโ€™s defiant pocket populated by polemic…